This article will go in-depth, explaining each of these styles and their unique histories. A significant part of what makes a suit look good on a man is the construction and appearance of the suit jacket. Legend has it that King Edward VII started the trend of leaving the bottom button of a suit as well as waistcoat undone. Double-breasted suit coats are almost always kept buttoned. Top Bra Camisole Undershirt.
In clothing, a suit is a set of garments made from the same cloth, usually consisting of at least a jacket and trousers. Lounge suits also known as business suits when sober in colour and style , which originated in Britain as country wear,  are the most common style of Western suit. Other types of suit still worn today are the dinner suit , part of black tie , which arose as a lounging alternative to dress coats in much the same way as the day lounge suit came to replace frock coats and morning coats ; and, rarely worn today, the morning suit.
This article discusses the lounge suit including business suits , elements of informal dress code. The variations in design, cut, and cloth, such as two- and three-piece, or single- and double-breasted, determine the social and work suitability of the garment. Often, suits are worn, as is traditional, with a collared shirt and necktie. Suits also come with different numbers of pieces: Originally, as with most clothes, a tailor made the suit from his client's selected cloth; these are now often known as bespoke suits.
The suit was custom made to the measurements, taste, and style of the man. Since the Industrial Revolution , most suits are mass-produced, and, as such, are sold as ready-to-wear garments though alteration by a tailor prior to wearing is common. Currently, suits are sold in roughly four ways:.
The current styles were founded in the industrial revolution during the late 18th century that sharply changed the elaborately embroidered and jewelled formal clothing into the simpler clothing of the British Regency period, which gradually evolved to the stark formality of the Victorian era. It was in the search for more comfort that the loosening of rules gave rise in the late 19th century to the modern lounge suit. Brooks Brothers is generally credited with first offering the "ready-to-wear" suit, a suit which was sold already manufactured and sized, ready to be tailored.
It was Haggar Clothing that first introduced the concept of suit separates in the US, the concept of separately sold jackets and trousers, which are widely found in the marketplace today. As a suit in this sense covers all or most of the wearer's body, the term "suit" was extended to a single garment that covers all or most of the body, such as boilersuits and diving suits and spacesuits see Suit disambiguation. There are many possible variations in the choice of the style, the garments and the details of a suit.
The silhouette of a suit is its outline. Tailored balance created from a canvas fitting allows a balanced silhouette so a jacket need not be buttoned and a garment is not too tight or too loose. A proper garment is shaped from the neck to the chest and shoulders to drape without wrinkles from tension.
Shape is the essential part of tailoring that often takes hand work from the start. The two main cuts are 1 double-breasted suits, a conservative design with two columns of buttons, spanned by a large overlap of the left and right sides; and 2 single-breasted suits, in which the sides overlap very slightly, with a single column of buttons.
Good tailoring anywhere in the world is characterised by strongly tapered sides and minimal shoulder, whereas often rack suits are padded to reduce labour. More casual suits are characterised by less construction and tailoring, much like the sack suit is a loose American style. The acid test of authentic tailoring standards is the wrinkle that comes from poor tailoring.
Rumples can be pressed out. For interim fittings, "Rock Of Eye" which means trained freehand based on an experienced artistic eye to match the item to the wearer, trusting the eye over unyielding scripted approach , drawing and cutting inaccuracies are overcome by the fitting. Suits are made in a variety of fabrics, but most commonly from wool. The two main yarns produce worsteds where the fibres are combed before spinning to produce a smooth, hard wearing cloth and woollens where they are not, thus remaining comparatively fluffy in texture.
These can be woven in a number of ways producing flannel , tweed , gabardine , and fresco among others. These fabrics all have different weights and feel, and some fabrics have an S or Super S number describing the fineness of the fibres measured by average fibre diameter, e. Although wool has traditionally been associated with warm, bulky clothing meant for warding off cold weather, advances in making finer and finer fibre have made wool suits acceptable for warmer weather, as fabrics have accordingly become lighter and more supple.
Wool fabric is denominated by the weight of a one-square yard piece; thus, the heavier wools, suitable for winter only, are 12—14 oz. In the days before central heating, heavier wools such as 16 oz.
Other materials are used sometimes, either alone or blended with wool, such as cashmere. Synthetic materials, while cheaper, e. At most, a blend of predominantly wool may be acceptable to obtain the main benefit of synthetics, namely resistance to wrinkling, particularly in garments used for travel; however, any synthetic, blended or otherwise, will always be warmer and clammier than wool alone. The main four colours for suits worn in business are black, light grey, dark grey, and navy, either with or without patterns.
In particular, grey flannel suiting has been worn very widely since the s. In non-business settings or less-formal business contexts, brown is another important colour; olive also occurs. In summer, lighter shades such as tan or cream are popular. For non-business use tweed has been popular since Victorian times, and still is commonly worn. A wide range of colour is available, including muted shades of green, brown, red, and grey.
While full tweed suits are not worn by many now, the jackets are often worn as sports jackets with odd trousers trousers of different cloth.
The most conventional suit is a 2- or 3-button and either medium to dark grey or navy. Other conservative colours are greys, black, and olive.
White and light blues are acceptable at some events, especially in the warm season. Red and the brighter greens are usually considered "unconventional" and "garish".
Tradition calls for a gentleman's suit to be of decidedly plain colour, with splashes of bright colour reserved for shirts, neckties or kerchiefs.
In the United States and the United Kingdom, around the start of the 20th century, lounge suits were never traditionally worn in plain black, this colour instead being reserved for formal wear  including dinner jackets or strollers , and for undertakers.
However, the decline of formal wear since the s and the rise of casual wear in s allowed the black suit to return to fashion, as many designers began wanting to move away from the business suit toward more fashion suits.
Traditional business suits are generally in solid colours or with pin stripes ;  windowpane checks are also acceptable. Outside business, the range of acceptable patterns widens, with plaids such as the traditional glen plaid and herringbone, though apart from some very traditional environments such as London banking, these are worn for business now too. The colour of the patterned element stripes, plaids , and checks varies by gender and location. For example, bold checks, particularly with tweeds, have fallen out of use in the US, while they continue to be worn as traditionally in Britain.
Some unusual old patterns such as diamonds are now rare everywhere. Inside the jacket of a suit, between the outer fabric and the inner lining , there is a layer of sturdy interfacing fabric to prevent the wool from stretching out of shape; this layer of cloth is called the canvas after the fabric from which it was traditionally made.
Expensive jackets have a floating canvas , while cheaply manufactured models have a fused glued canvas. Most single-breasted suits have two or three buttons, and one or four buttons are unusual except that dinner jackets "black tie" often have only one button. It is rare to find a suit with more than four buttons, although zoot suits can have as many as six or more due to their longer length.
There is also variation in the placement and style of buttons,  since the button placement is critical to the overall impression of height conveyed by the jacket. The centre or top button will typically line up quite closely with the natural waistline.
It usually crosses naturally with the left side to the fore but not invariably. Generally, a hidden button holds the underlap in place. Double-breasted jackets have only half their outer buttons functional, as the second row is for display only, forcing them to come in pairs. Some rare jackets can have as few as two buttons, and during various periods, for instance the s and 70s, as many as eight were seen.
Six buttons are typical, with two to button; the last pair floats above the overlap. The three buttons down each side may in this case be in a straight line the 'keystone' layout or more commonly, the top pair is half as far apart again as each pair in the bottom square.
A four-button double-breasted jacket usually buttons in a square. For example, if the buttons are too low, or the lapel roll too pronounced, the eyes are drawn down from the face, and the waist appears larger. The jacket's lapels can be notched also called "stepped" , peaked "pointed" , shawl, or "trick" Mandarin and other unconventional styles. Each lapel style carries different connotations, and is worn with different cuts of suit.
Notched lapels are the most common of the three are usually only found on single-breasted jackets and are the most informal style. They are distinguished by a 75 to 90 degree 'notch' at the point where the lapel meets the collar. Double-breasted jackets usually have peaked lapels, although peaked lapels are often found on single breasted jackets as well. Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for tuxedos or dinner suits.
In the s, double-breasted suits with notched lapels were popular with power suits and the New Wave style. In the late s and s, a design considered very stylish was the single-breasted peaked lapel jacket. This has gone in and out of vogue periodically, being popular once again during the s, [ citation needed ] and is still a recognised alternative. The ability to properly cut peak lapels on a single-breasted suit is one of the most challenging tailoring tasks, even for very experienced tailors.
The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years. The s and s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas during the late s and most of the s suits with very narrow lapels—often only about an inch wide—were in fashion. The s saw mid-size lapels with a low gorge the point on the jacket that forms the "notch" or "peak" between the collar and front lapel.
Current mids trends are towards a narrower lapel and higher gorge. Lapels also have a buttonhole , intended to hold a boutonnière , a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. Usually double-breasted suits have one hole on each lapel with a flower just on the left , while single-breasted suits have just one on the left.
Most jackets have a variety of inner pockets, and two main outer pockets, which are generally either patch pockets, flap pockets, or jetted "besom" pockets. The flap pocket is standard for side pockets, and has an extra lined flap of matching fabric covering the top of the pocket. A jetted pocket is most formal, with a small strip of fabric taping the top and bottom of the slit for the pocket.
This style is most often on seen on formalwear , such as a dinner jacket. A breast pocket is usually found at the left side, where a pocket square or handkerchief can be displayed. In addition to the standard two outer pockets and breast pocket, some suits have a fourth, the ticket pocket, usually located just above the right pocket and roughly half as wide. Short, thin guys are well-served by the characteristically short jacket and high buttoning stance of Italian suits, and thin men look sharper in their slimmer fit.
With that said, heavyset men may feel more comfortable in them as their straight lines can hang more neatly on their bodies. To find out more about American suits you can skip ahead to the American Suits section below.
These skilled artisans were attracted to the Mayfair area by its affluent residents, mainly surgeons and officers in the British military. Higher armholes made for closer-fitting sleeves.
More elaborate, and expensive, construction lent the British suit a tapered waist. Lightly padded-shoulders, probably borrowed from highly-stylized military uniforms. Modeled after a French coat popularized during the s, the sack suit was loosely-fitted, giving its wearer a soft silhouette. Manufacturers were looking for low-cost garments to produce in large quantities, garments that lent themselves to industrialized production.
Because the sack style was meant to look baggy, it was already a one-size-fits-all product: Also they were worn front open to expose the belt cummerbund. Key callout here is that this style is best suited if you have to stand the entire evening and your hands stay out of the pocket. None of them is ever going to be out of fashion or will ever lead you to a fashion faux pas. However, for me the clear winner is the Brit style double vent jacket that spells class and drapes gracefully over the hips.
Its classy, its pragmatic, its stylish and pedigreed. Still want more… here is what GQ has to offer on suit jacket vent. It is actually a great and useful piece of information. Please keep us informed like this. Thank you for sharing.
Partly because it goes with the slimmer, trimmer suit style, and also because most guys wear their suits too long. Here's the deal: You should be able to easily cup your hands beneath your suit. Suit includes: fully lined jacket with a notch lapel, flap pockets, and Classic Men Kung Fu Tops, Long Sleeve Tai Chi Shirt Buckled Linen Tang Suit Chinese Style Cotton Shirts 's slim fit style suit vest features single-breasted vest design HDE Women's Retro Bikini High Waist Vintage Style Swimsuit 50's Pinup Bathing Suit. by HDE. Avoid skinny suits and instead turn to the classic cut jackets in one size up to create a wider shoulder (add extra shoulder pads too.) Pants legs are best in a classic, high rise fit, with one or two pleats.